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style & equipment |
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Darrington: About: Style & Equipment |
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Style
Outings here are multipitch,
on granite slabs, walls and aprons, generally four to ten pitches
in length. The rock is so solid that, while cracks
and flakes are common, entire pitches traverse unbroken slab or knobby
face where sometimes the leader may see no obvious route ahead and
may have to suck it up and go on, hoping to find unseen protection
or other sign of the route somewhere above. Long falls are possible
and careful judgment is required. While this may be unnerving, adequate
protection is found at or near the more difficult moves on most popular
climbs and, once you get used to it, the climbing is very rewarding.
Equipment
Lead racks should include everything from tiny stoppers
to large cams and nuts, though active camming devices are generally
more secure
than nuts when placed under overlaps or behind flakes. Over
the years, pitons and bolts have been upgraded on many routes but
they still cannot be completely counted upon and standard precautions
should apply (of course). Up to twelve quick draws may be required
on some leads, and long runners are useful for reducing rope drag,
tying off bushes, or setting up a retreat. Two ropes are needed
to rappel almost any climb in Darrington, and “walking off” is
generally a poor option.
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Safe Sex, photo by Gary Yngve |
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